Cayman GT4 RS

[Harold996tt]

3 hours ago, Arrow29 said:

Thanks. Same to you! 
My change point is also 31/5 with a July build. 

I also didn’t go Weissach because I personally prefer the look of the painted bonnet in my spec and didn’t see the value for the bits I did like. Good to have variety out there!
 

Now my last decision will be closer to delivery and whether I get dealer to install the drivers racing harness or not. What have the majority here done? I plan on doing some track days in it, but I’m also going to drive it regularly on the street - not a daily, but still 1-2x a week at least. One car I sat in with the harness installed I found the bottom belts / buckle to be a bit annoying feeling it under thighs (when using seatbelt for road use). But I didn’t spend ages playing around to see if could improve it or not.. 

My old GT3 RS had racing harnesses installed. Ultimately I got used to driving the car with the feel of the belts under me.

[DJM]

10 hours ago, Arrow29 said:

Now my last decision will be closer to delivery and whether I get dealer to install the drivers racing harness or not. What have the majority here done? I plan on doing some track days in it, but I’m also going to drive it regularly on the street - not a daily, but still 1-2x a week at least. One car I sat in with the harness installed I found the bottom belts / buckle to be a bit annoying feeling it under thighs (when using seatbelt for road use). But I didn’t spend ages playing around to see if could improve it or not.. 

I have 2 harnesses in mine.  I just “do the tuck”.  The shoulder belts tuck over the wings of the seat and the waist belts tuck over the side bolsters.  The buckle pulls down through the hole in the seat and lays flat on the carpet underneath.  It’s a 2 minute job to pull seat cushion up (Velcro) with one hand while feeding the buckle back up through the seat base with the other hand.  The seats are essentially clear of the harness belts for road use.  Non issue.

[WGA]

13 hours ago, Arrow29 said:

Now my last decision will be closer to delivery and whether I get dealer to install the drivers racing harness or not. What have the majority here done? I plan on doing some track days in it, but I’m also going to drive it regularly on the street - not a daily, but still 1-2x a week at least. One car I sat in with the harness installed I found the bottom belts / buckle to be a bit annoying feeling it under thighs (when using seatbelt for road use). But I didn’t spend ages playing around to see if could improve it or not.. 

You should get the dealer to install the harnesses. If you don't, you will regret it once you hit the track. 

For road riving, I simply pull the shoulder straps through the holes in the top of the seat and let them hang behind seat against the rear firewall. If you are pendantic, you can use some velcro to roll them up into a neat ball but I don't bother.

For the lap belts, I pull the outside strap through the side bolster hole in the seat and let them sit on the floor beside the seat. The inside lap belt is a bit tricker because it is hard up against the tunnel with next to no room to pull it through the bolster hole....so I loosen off the belt almost as far as it will go and then tuck the belt up over the side of the bolster onto the floor. This put the belts completely out of the way as if they are not there.

[Yeatesy]

Unfortunately I don’t have a GT4 but I have a harness related question. Has anyone been pulled over and/or fined for using them on the road?

[Arrow29]

Thanks DJM and WGA for the harness info - very helpful! The one I sat in (photo attached) had the buckle hanging on the seat so was quite noticeable sitting, which is what gave me the doubts. But how you guys describe sound like it should be a non issue! 
 

 

[LuNguyen]

On 27/04/2024 at 13:48, WGA said:

Congrats. Everyone who wants one will probably end up getting one because they are making a shit load of these things.

Is it true that the 4RS will be made through 2024 and 2025? I had given up too but have sent another enquiry just to be sure and letting them know I'm willing to wait til next year if need be.

[sleazius]

Last production is 24 model, August of this year because of regulatory reasons. I was offered one two weeks back out of the blue so if you ring around you may get one before production ends.

Edit: to be clear production will continue for the US market and other ROW markets outside of Europe, PCA just can't comply them after January 1, 2025 here. Japan and a couple of other markets have a similar issue and will also cease production.

[LuNguyen]

Thanks sleazius... That's a bit more clarity. Likelihood where I am will be low I imagine but that information is good to know 

[Ian718]

35 minutes ago, LuNguyen said:

Thanks sleazius... That's a bit more clarity. Likelihood where I am will be low I imagine but that information is good to know 

https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/porsche-australia-retiring-petrol-macan-718-in-2024-to-make-room-for-electric-cars

Everything @sleazius said is correct, bar a small correction on the date. 1 March 2025 rather than 1 Jan 2025 is the cutoff date for the compliance of a certain type of autonomous emergency braking that the 718 (and ICE Macan) can't comply with, therefore can't be sold as new cars.

Normally I couldn't be bothered to correct something so small, but in your case, those 2 months might actually make a difference.

[LuNguyen]

Thanks @sleaziusand @Ian718... Sent the question... Don't expect there will be a slot but no dramas... Looks like the second hand market would be an option in the future as there seem to be more GT4RS than GT4s and GTS 4.0s!

[sleazius]

Thanks @Ian718 - was just relaying what the dealer told me, always good to get clarity however!

Meanwhile the European stop sale is due to emissions regulation that was supposed to go into force in 2025 but has now been pushed off until 2030. Brussels is doing their level best to destroy the german car industry with their flip flopping.

 

[Arrow29]

6 hours ago, LuNguyen said:

Is it true that the 4RS will be made through 2024 and 2025? I had given up too but have sent another enquiry just to be sure and letting them know I'm willing to wait til next year if need be.

Good luck LuNguyen, I hope you get an allocation. As others have said my dealership said August last production for Aus.. I had been told no joy re: allocation and then got a call 2wks later out of blue saying Porsche AUS has given them allocations unexpectedly and it’s mine if I want it.

[DJM]

8 hours ago, Arrow29 said:

Thanks DJM and WGA for the harness info - very helpful! The one I sat in (photo attached) had the buckle hanging on the seat so was quite noticeable sitting, which is what gave me the doubts. But how you guys describe sound like it should be a non issue! 
 

 

Yep that crutch strap can be pulled through and lay under the seat entirely.  No need to have it flapping about near the crown jewels 😂. I’ve had my car about 9 months and I’ll pulled the buckle up for 3 track days, the rest of the 7000 or so, buckles are tucked below the seat and no issue.

 

im yet to convince anyone to ride with me on track so the passenger harness remains tucked and never used 🤷‍♂️

[Harold996tt]

17 hours ago, LuNguyen said:

Is it true that the 4RS will be made through 2024 and 2025? I had given up too but have sent another enquiry just to be sure and letting them know I'm willing to wait til next year if need be.

Best of luck. I suspect the 4 RS isn't flying off the shelf anymore and the new allocations are at a number of dealerships.

[sleazius]

5 hours ago, Harold996tt said:

Best of luck. I suspect the 4 RS isn't flying off the shelf anymore and the new allocations are at a number of dealerships.

No easy money and no-one lining up to buy for overs will do that.

[Ian718]

Have any 4RS or GT4 owners used lightweight Lithium batteries to drop some weight? (asking for my incoming Spyder RS, but this thread has a lot more traffic and what works in a 4RS is going to work in an SRS)

 

I want to: (1) Not throw error codes and (2) Weigh as little as possible… and obviously these two principles are conflicting

 

I had previously been considering the 60Ah version of this battery. https://www.lithiumax.com.au/product-page/lithiumax-gen4-restart10-bluetooth-1200ca-120ah-pbeq-starter-battery

 

I posed the question on the Australian GT4/4RS FB group, and 1 person has unfortunately used that specific battery (60Ah Lithiumax Restart10) and it threw error codes on his GT4MR (but surprisingly it didn’t throw codes on his 991.2 3RS).

 

The Rennlist crowd seems to have a lot of people using the H6 60Ah antigravity https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h6-rs/ . Zero reports of error codes, but I think I need to get it shipped from the US…

 

Then there is the maximally expensive end of the market - https://en.liteblox.de/shop/liteblox-lb28xx-lightweight-battery-for-performance-and-motorsport/

 

Does anyone have any real world testing of lightweight Lithium batteries here?

[Peter John]

Even if you dropped 20kg from the car what does it matter? Get on the treadmill, go to the bathroom before every drive, wear only board shorts and crocs and don’t fill up past 1/3 of a tank- you’ll feel faster.

[DJM]

19 minutes ago, Peter John said:

Even if you dropped 20kg from the car what does it matter? Get on the treadmill, go to the bathroom before every drive, wear only board shorts and crocs and don’t fill up past 1/3 of a tank- you’ll feel faster.

Ozempic is much cheaper than Liteblox 😂

[Ian718]

1 hour ago, Peter John said:

Even if you dropped 20kg from the car what does it matter? Get on the treadmill, go to the bathroom before every drive, wear only board shorts and crocs and don’t fill up past 1/3 of a tank- you’ll feel faster.

 

1 hour ago, DJM said:

Ozempic is much cheaper than Liteblox 😂

I know you guys are joking… but at timed track events I actually do start with under 1/4 tank, remove frunk pods, air pump, drain wiper fluid, etc (ie all the ‘no cost’ weight savings). Each small weight change (like a Li battery) doesn’t matter individually, but adding them up can be significant to lap times!

Of course on the street, you are 100% right

[DJM]

Try it with and without weight loss and report back on lap times.  I’m tipping bugger all difference.

I’m definitely not a pro driver so I struggle to get consistent laps within half a second of each other so I don’t imagine saving a little weight will show up on the lap times .  

Reminds me of a mate who would spend $$$$$ to get super lightweight pedals for his push bike to ride down beach road 0.000001% faster  🤷‍♂️ 

[Ian718]

14 minutes ago, DJM said:

Try it with and without weight loss and report back on lap times.  I’m tipping g bugger all difference.

I’m definitely not a pro driver so I struggle to get consistent laps within half a second of each other so I don’t imagine saving a little weight will show up on the lap times .  

Reminds me of a mate who would spend $$$$$ to get super lightweight pedals for his push bike to ride down beach road 0.000001% faster  🤷‍♂️ 

I’m now at a level that I can put down pretty consistent times on my hotlaps. Not consistent enough to notice a small weight difference, but passenger vs no passenger laps on private Luddenham trackdays is about 0.5s (51.x second laps).

I hold the majority of the lap records for my power to weight ratio class at the PCNSW supersprints. And it did hurt me to miss a record I don’t hold by 0.01sec And it does make me wonder ‘what if’?

To me the Lithium battery is actually one of the 'low hanging fruit' kg/$ weight saving options. There are much more expensive ways to lose weight!

[cafe_racer]

1 hour ago, Ian718 said:

 

I know you guys are joking… but at timed track events I actually do start with under 1/4 tank, remove frunk pods, air pump, drain wiper fluid, etc (ie all the ‘no cost’ weight savings). Each small weight change (like a Li battery) doesn’t matter individually, but adding them up can be significant to lap times!

Of course on the street, you are 100% right

You must be quick! I’ve got a baby seat in the passenger side of my 996 gt3 right now and can’t tell the difference.  To me tyres and setup have always been #1 for lap times  

[Peter John]

2 hours ago, Ian718 said:

I’m now at a level that I can put down pretty consistent times on my hotlaps. Not consistent enough to notice a small weight difference, but passenger vs no passenger laps on private Luddenham trackdays is about 0.5s (51.x second laps).

I hold the majority of the lap records for my power to weight ratio class at the PCNSW supersprints. And it did hurt me to miss a record I don’t hold by 0.01sec And it does make me wonder ‘what if’?

To me the Lithium battery is actually one of the 'low hanging fruit' kg/$ weight saving options. There are much more expensive ways to lose weight!

I know you are joking when you say you empty your washer fluid. I recall a YouTube video comparing hill climb on a pushie with a drink bottle full vs empty. Was interesting data.

If 0.5 sec with passenger and let’s go conservative 80kg for the friend, is a 20kg saving 0.125? 
 

I do hope you’re joking about emptying washer fluid. Is your car radio delete? You know how many speakers are in the car? Tyres filled with helium? Got the grinder out on the body deadener? Shaved your new tyres? And back to the washer fluid, have you thought about removing the wipers when you get to the track? All adds up.

Don’t get me wrong, I get it. I shaved 45kg from a car to get it to 780kg with 90hp at the wheels and being 96kg myself there was a big impact on what I stripped out. 
 

With your car I would suggest driver coaching or a race car, not a road car. I know someone who is the man to beat and stood 6”4 like me but another 35kg on me. How did such a heavy weight be the quickest? 
 

Oh, another trick it to remove your carpet mats and pedal rubbers. 

[Ian718]

Ok ok! I submit and surrender! Wrong forum, my bad

[LeeM]

  1 litre of water equals 1kg, and  most washer bottles hold probably 3 or 4 litres, so removing the water has gotta be worth at least 000000.001 per lap 👍😉

 If people are serious about reducing their lap times, removing any unnecessary weight is the first thing on the list, not spending $28,000 on lightweight braking systems. That's why there's cars like Cup cars and the GT4 Clubs port available.

Increasing one's depth perception of braking later (aka bigger balls), using the loud pedal through and on the exit of corners earlier by .5sec per corner, better gear changes at the correct rpm in the sweet spot of torque (aka you don't need to rev the shit out of it to the limiter at every gear change). Pick a section of the track to focus on to improve every lap, then move to another section to focus on. Professional suspension set up advice, tyre pressures, get some professional tuition...etc. The list is long, and so is the time to tie it all together.

 You can't possibly improve lap times when you're only doing the occasional track day every 2 or 3 months if you're a 'beginner' in a street car, as you take half the day getting back up to speed. Throwing money at go fast parts in a GT4 or GT3 might work in your head, yet 9 times out of 10  the car is probably better than you are as a driver.

 I'm not a great driver to offer driving advice and have never done a track day in a car (bikes, thousands of laps so I have half an idea which does help car driving), yet the one thing I'd highly recommend (again, if you're serious) is get a 125 Rotax Kart or similar...preferably a gearbox one like a KZ or 2 speed DD2. That will hone your driving skills to reduce your lap times, be a shitload cheaper and probably more fun. You'll probably forget about driving your car on a track 😁

 Name an F1 driver who hasn't raced Karts and occasionally still do drive them!

 Above all, I'd be getting tuition from a professional driver first, then see how far down the rabbit hole you wish to go/afford

Dribble over 👍