Home built Hot Rod

[MFX]

This week I finish off the carpets and install the stereo head unit.

 

 

[grantmr]

Great stereo, what's the brand? Would heating the window rubber make it easier to work with?

[MFX]

Great stereo, what's the brand? Would heating the window rubber make it easier to work with?

The Stereo is RetroSound. Once I get it all connected up I will do a full review, but from my research it looks good. It is a component type system, so it can suit much older cars, or newer, depending on what look you are after.

The issue with the rubber on the window, is that it goes on, but then pops back out. We keep working on it on a Friday evening when Mrs Jeff gets home. We are both tired and I still have to edit the video. We are going to have a go tomorrow, during the day when we can take our time and get it done.

[Raven]

Mate I have the PCM PLUS Boss surround in my 997,s and to be honest in 3 years I may have used it maybe 4 or 5 times ,,,the only soundtrack I want hear is the engine sound ,,,,,my father claims he only has turned the stereo on once in his 360 Modena to see that it worked when he first got the car  

[Caledonian]

I've been watching your progress from the start and you usually figure out the challenges yourself, but this one with the windscreen appears to be testing your seamingly endless patience 

I replaced the front screen in my SC recently and I did it myself 1st time with no Mrs Jeff! Not showing off  here ( ok maybe a little) just trying to help with sharing my experience.

You clearly know how to fit one of these screens, as you have now consulted a professional you have also gotten a few trade tips. So one or more of these is causing the problem:

• Screen appature - you have identified the pinch weld (Lip) was misaligned but I would also check the  screen aperture dimensions, you could probably find these on the WWW somewhere but as you know the area that was damaged a comparative measurement to the good side may be enough to confirm dimensions are ok.

•The screen - all aftermarket screens are not created equal, while not necessarily a common issue I have come across some in the past that were not quite right. A few mm too wide or a curve not matching the aperture profiles will give you grief and it's not alway obvious. Like the installer did previously, drop the glass in with no rubber to check the gaps ( you may have already done this)?

• The screen rubber condition and quality - An old rubber does not always mean a hard one they can be too soft also. Not sure WD40 is the best choice of lubricant, while its ability to help things slide into place it may also be helping it pop back out too. A soapy water mix a spray bottle might be a better solution ( pun intended) and leave little residue.

Trims - In my experience these should be fitted prior to installing the screen in the car. They help lock the rubber to the glass as well as look pretty. They are quite soft and easily bent, but can be straightened with one of those little nylon hammers, a block of wood and a soft cloth to protect the face. They are a pain to fit to the rubber and again too much lube helps them pop back out. To save my old fingers I used a pair of those adjustable plumbers pliers with some plastic or rubber hose over the jaws, and a small peice of wood to spread the force so not to kink the trim on those stubborn bits. The condition of the rubber will also impact the ability of the trim to stay in place as the barb profile that slots into the rubber will wear away the rubber depending on how many times it's been pushed in and out.

Hope this is of some help.

BTW Loved the machine shop video and looking forward to the Retrosound review as I've been looking at them.

 

 

[MFX]

I've been watching your progress from the start and you usually figure out the challenges yourself, but this one with the windscreen appears to be testing your seamingly endless patience 

I replaced the front screen in my SC recently and I did it myself 1st time with no Mrs Jeff! Not showing off  here ( ok maybe a little) just trying to help with sharing my experience.

You clearly know how to fit one of these screens, as you have now consulted a professional you have also gotten a few trade tips. So one or more of these is causing the problem:

• Screen appature - you have identified the pinch weld (Lip) was misaligned but I would also check the  screen aperture dimensions, you could probably find these on the WWW somewhere but as you know the area that was damaged a comparative measurement to the good side may be enough to confirm dimensions are ok.

•The screen - all aftermarket screens are not created equal, while not necessarily a common issue I have come across some in the past that were not quite right. A few mm too wide or a curve not matching the aperture profiles will give you grief and it's not alway obvious. Like the installer did previously, drop the glass in with no rubber to check the gaps ( you may have already done this)?

• The screen rubber condition and quality - An old rubber does not always mean a hard one they can be too soft also. Not sure WD40 is the best choice of lubricant, while its ability to help things slide into place it may also be helping it pop back out too. A soapy water mix a spray bottle might be a better solution ( pun intended) and leave little residue.

Trims - In my experience these should be fitted prior to installing the screen in the car. They help lock the rubber to the glass as well as look pretty. They are quite soft and easily bent, but can be straightened with one of those little nylon hammers, a block of wood and a soft cloth to protect the face. They are a pain to fit to the rubber and again too much lube helps them pop back out. To save my old fingers I used a pair of those adjustable plumbers pliers with some plastic or rubber hose over the jaws, and a small peice of wood to spread the force so not to kink the trim on those stubborn bits. The condition of the rubber will also impact the ability of the trim to stay in place as the barb profile that slots into the rubber will wear away the rubber depending on how many times it's been pushed in and out.

Hope this is of some help.

BTW Loved the machine shop video and looking forward to Retrosound rewiew as I've been look at them.

 

 

That is some great food for thought. I think your idea of the soapy water may be a better one. I think half the reason it keeps popping out is that is is too slippery. It goes on ok with pressure on it, but when I take the pressure off it slips back out. As I mentioned the other issue is trying to do it late on a Friday, when it is cold and we are tired. We will give it another go during the day tomorrow, when we are fresh and relaxed and hopefully we will get it sorted in the end  

[PCM911T]

Hi Mr and Mrs Jeff, I have also been watching your infinite patience and determination to do it yourself. I agree with Caledonian's comments above re checking the aperture dimensions etc and suggest you see that the dash pad is not holding the screen seal up. All I can add is that I had my screen fitted by a guy who has refitted many Carrera Cup cars of differing vintages. Fitted the trims first. no lubricant or sealer (not needed he said the seal should do its job) and with an assistant on the inside gently fitted the screen in five minutes. Good Luck.

Cheers

Paul M

[MFX]

Hi Mr and Mrs Jeff, I have also been watching your infinite patience and determination to do it yourself. I agree with Caledonian's comments above re checking the aperture dimensions etc and suggest you see that the dash pad is not holding the screen seal up. All I can add is that I had my screen fitted by a guy who has refitted many Carrera Cup cars of differing vintages. Fitted the trims first. no lubricant or sealer (not needed he said the seal should do its job) and with an assistant on the inside gently fitted the screen in five minutes. Good Luck.

Cheers

Paul M

I have come to the conclusion, that a lot of my issue is that I have been smothering the rubber in WD40 as that is what has been suggested. The thing is, the windscreen goes in ok, but when I remove the pressure, it pops back out. Today I am going to clean it all up, and try it again dry. I am hoping that will do the job.

[MFX]

This week I finish off fitting my car stereo and then move on to making some custom front and rear grills for the car.

 

[Raven]

Those grill look great ....clean simple nice work ...

[Spectre]

Grills look great

Could some of the wiring be for the light that sits behind the heater slides?

[MFX]

Grills look great

Could some of the wiring be for the light that sits behind the heater slides?

Yeah, there is also a buzzing noise coming from behind the instruments when I turn on the ignition. It is not going to make for an exiting episode, but I think I have to spend a week on just sorting out wiring...

[Pfitz911]

Pretty confident those lights are for the heaters mate

[grantmr]

Jeff I tried to send u pm but it wouldn't go through, mailbox full?

Was just wondering if you've considered monetizing your videos, maybe get a few bucks for your efforts?

Great work as always, thanks.

[MFX]

Pretty confident those lights are for the heaters mate

Yeah, they go into the heater controls, but I don't know why they, along with the gauge lights, are always on when the battery is connected?

Jeff I tried to send u pm but it wouldn't go through, mailbox full?

Was just wondering if you've considered monetizing your videos, maybe get a few bucks for your efforts?

Great work as always, thanks.

Thanks I will clean out my inbox, but yes I do monetise my videos, but it makes bugger all. I currently get around 70,000 views a month and I get paid about $120 per month. Definitely not retiring to become a full time YouTuber anytime soon  

[grantmr]

Yeah, they go into the heater controls, but I don't know why they, along with the gauge lights, are always on when the battery is connected?

Thanks I will clean out my inbox, but yes I do monetise my videos, but it makes bugger all. I currently get around 70,000 views a month and I get paid about $120 per month. Definitely not retiring to become a full time YouTuber anytime soon  

Weird, i never see any ads on your vids. Probably an unpopular opinion but if you link to youtube instead of embedding you'll likely get more likes, follows, and $

[LeeM]

I currently get around 70,000 views a month and I get paid about $120 per month. Definitely not retiring to become a full time YouTuber anytime soon  

 Spotty teens make a mint singing cover songs on Youtube, so maybe Mrs Jeff needs to sing the Fun Facts mate!  

[Peter M]

Pretty confident those lights are for the heaters mate

Jeff,

Great work as always!

The two lights that go to each end of the back of the heater will likely have a black/blue and brown leads.  The other light for the ashtray will likely have grey and brown leads.

Now the really important point that I can't stress enough is that none of these lights are fused and it is not uncommon for these lights to short and burn out a metre or two of wiring back to the light switch.  The bulb holder for the ashtray isn't very robust and I know from firsthand experience that it just needs a knock to short out, particularly if there isn't bulb in it at the time.  

Consequently the hot tip is to install in-line fuses as close as practical to the light switch.  I notice that some people just make a simple fused "jump" lead that connects between the switch connection spade and light lead female connector.

With the lights having power to them all the time, I suspect they have just been connected to the wrong spades on the back of the headlight switch. The black/blue leads are on the interior dimmer light circuit while the ashtray light is not.  Both circuits are energised when the parkers or headlights are switched on.

Regards

Peter

 

Edited 3June, 2017 by Peter M

[MFX]

Jeff,

Great work as always!

The two lights that go to each end of the back of the heater will likely have a black/blue and brown leads.  The other light for the ashtray will likely have grey and brown leads.

Now the really important point that I can't stress enough is that none of these lights are fused and it is not uncommon for these lights to short and burn out a metre or two of wiring back to the light switch.  The bulb holder for the ashtray isn't very robust and I know from firsthand experience that it just needs a knock to short out, particularly if there isn't bulb in it at the time.  

Consequently the hot tip is to install in-line fuses as close as practical to the light switch.  I notice that some people just make a simple fused "jump" lead that connects between the switch connection spade and light lead female connector.

With the lights having power to them all the time, I suspect they have just been connected to the wrong spades on the back of the headlight switch. The black/blue leads are on the interior dimmer light circuit while the ashtray light is not.  Both circuits are energised when the parkers or headlights are switched on.

Regards

Peter

 

Thanks Peter. That is exactly the advise I was looking for. That would make a lot of sense that I have wired the back of the head light switch wrong. I will pull that out and have a look at it when I get onto the wiring.

Lee, you really don't want to hear Mrs Jeff sign (unless you like the sound of screeching cats  ).

[OZ930]

Just to add to Peter's comment, it is a good time to change to LEDs.  The constant heat from the incandescent bulbs can melt the bulb mounts behind the heater controls.

Are you going to black out behind the engine grill too ?

Keep up the good work.

Lee, you really don't want to hear Mrs Jeff sign (unless you like the sound of screeching cats  ).

Mrs Jeff can "sign" too ?  Impressive......and easier on the ears.

[MFX]

 

Mrs Jeff can "sign" too ?  Impressive......and easier on the ears.

Haha, typing too fast  

I did notice when I looked back at my pics on Facebook, that the engine grill would look better with black underneath. I am also thinking about keeping the rear grill chrome but adding the stripes over it.

[OZ930]

 I am also thinking about keeping the rear grill chrome but adding the stripes over it.

Had the same thought.

[grantmr]

+1 stripes

[MFX]

Alright, stripes it is

[Timm]

+2 for stripes